A big box of joy…

…arrived from Fabric Mart today! ūüôā

From left to right, back to front:

Silk/Cotton suiting, cream and metallic silver.¬† There is MUCH more silver in this fabric than I expected!¬† I had planned to use this for the jacket from Vogue 1132, but I’ll have to think on that a bit….

Marc Jacobs wool blend plaid, which doesn’t appear to be available on the site anymore.¬† I think I paid $3.99/yd for this.¬† It was such a good deal, I bought 6 yards.¬† I would like to make the Burda Tonia Shorts¬†out of this.¬† The rest will probably be used for a jacket.

Marc Jacobs novelty embroidered cotton with stars.¬† This one is so fun, and doesn’t appear to be¬†available any more.¬† The weave between the stars is somewhat loose and the fabric is very light.¬† It will probably end up as a summer dress.¬† Here’s a closeup:

Linen blend jersey knit in chili pepper. 

Linen blend jersey knit in aquamarine.

“Brushstrokes” ITY knit from Julie’s Picks.¬† I’ll make another McCall’s 5974 with this.

White ribbed knit for turtlenecks/tees for layering.

Purple/Gray/White striped silk shantung that is no longer available.¬† I have no idea what I’ll make with this, but it is BEAUTIFUL.¬† The stripes run selvage to selvage.¬† I’d like to try to avoid horizontal stripes, although maybe the broader stripes won’t be so bad.¬† I have about 2 yards.¬† Any suggestions?

Black Ponte knit from Julie’s Picks, which I’m hoping to make some pants from.

Not pictured is this lovely silk/cotton toile. I don’t know what this will be yet, but it is very lovely!

I also received a free 6 yard fabric bundle with my order.  I received 2 yards of a red knit, 1 5/8 yards of a black woven, and another 2.5 yards of the cream/silver silk/cotton suiting, so I guess I can make a skirt to go with my jacket!

 

 

Anise progress

Now that I have the fit right, it’s time to move along to constructing the jacket!¬† I found some really lovely fabric for this project: a wonderful burgundy novelty wool from Stonemountain & Daughter that has a very very soft feel to it – almost like a very nice quality fleece; some gorgeous multi-colored silk organza (I think it may be a silk/cotton blend, actually) from Fabric Mart that picks up the burgundy from the jacket body for the lining; and – the crowning glory – some wonderful faux Persian Lamb (not pictured) for the collar, which I think will really add to the vintage feel of the design!

Anise jacket fabric choices. Can you tell I have a thing for purple?

Originally I had planned to use the lambskin in the photo for the pocket welts and the bound buttonholes, but I decided against it as this is my first time working with those particular design elements, and I felt that adding leather to the mix might make it a bit too challenging.  Also, I really want the Persian Lamb collar to be a focal point on the jacket, and I think the leather might have detracted from that.

I think these add to the vintage look of the jacket.

I also found these wonderful metal buttons with a sort of gray mother-of-pearl looking accent in the middle.  They compliment the black of the collar very nicely.

I recently ordered a case of Dynarex Medical Paper¬†to use as tracing paper¬†after reading a thread on Pattern Review.¬† This stuff is FANTASTIC for pattern tracing!¬† It’s a bit more heavy duty so won’t tear as easily, but still lightweight and see-through, making tracing easy.¬† I traced the pattern pieces for the jacket front, lining front and front facing, and made the adjustments for a 2.5″ FBA (I nearly forgot I would have to make the adjustments on the lining and facing too – DUH moment!) per my earlier fitting, then cut my fashion fabric and jumped in to jacket construction!¬† This is the first time I’ve underlined anything, and I have to say that I really do like the way the jacket feels and looks with the underlining.¬† It adds a nice weight and drape that the fabric alone wouldn’t have.¬† As suspected, adding the 2.5″ FBA resulted in some ENORMOUS bust darts.¬† I trimmed these and pressed flat to reduce bulk, then used a loose catchstitch to attach the trimmed darts to the underlining.

I have planned from the beginning to do bound buttonholes on this jacket, but as I got further and further in to construction I began second guessing my decision.  I had never done them before, and I was really nervous about it! I had pretty much made up my mind to just go ahead with machine

My first ever bound buttonhole!

buttonholes when Sarai posted a wonderful Bound Buttonhole Tutorial on the Coletterie forums.  This was by far the simplest and most easy to understand tutorial I had ever seen for bound buttonholes.  It really helped to reassure me that I could do it, and I knew the jacket would look better with them, so I forged ahead and, voila!  My first ever bound buttonhole!  It really was an easier process than I had imagined it being, although time consuming.  The top two are not the best in the world, but you can tell by the third buttonhole I was definitely feeling more confident with them!

After adding the bound buttonholes, I also stitched matching faux buttonholes on the opposite side of the center line of the right front jacket piece.¬† I’ll sew my decorative buttons on top of these faux buttonholes.

After adding the buttonholes, I stitched the front to the back at the shoulders.¬† I was still on a high from the buttonhole success, and decided to sew up the facing and collar as well.¬† Here’s Matilda modelling my progress so far.¬† I think it’s coming along very well!¬† Hope you are all making good progress on your projects, too!

Stage one of construction on the Anise jacket – DONE!