Adventures in Full Bust Adjustments


Well, here are the pattern pieces for M6163 all adjusted for a 2″ FBA. This took a lot more adjusting than usual. Rather than two mirror image pieces, this dress has one large piece that is the front of the dress (1), and a smaller panel that is sewn under the larger piece on the left side (2).


I had to adjust both sides individually, then make a second adjustment on the opposite side of the center line of each piece to ensure everything still lined up.


Now that I have everything adjusted and theoretically ready, I’m second guessing myself. The adjusted pattern pieces look HUGE. I measured, and adjusting for seam allowance the finished dress should be about 3″ bigger than my measurement at the hips, which is about where I want it to be. But I just can’t get past how huge it looks sitting there on the table!

I’m not sure I want to cut in to my fashion fabric without sewing up a second muslin, and unfortunately I don’t have any suitable knits in my stash. I think I’ll sleep on this for tonight, and if I’m still feeling doubtful I’ll make a quick trip to Fabrix tomorrow to try to find some inexpensive knit for a muslin.

Sometimes I drive myself a little nuts with doubting my own abilities. Does anyone else struggle with that? It’s definitely one of the things I’m hoping my participation in the RTW challenge will help me with.


V1292 – A momentum boost!

Sorry I’ve been a little absent lately!  I started working on M6163 right after I finished the Jasmine blouse.  My muslin showed I needed an FBA, as expected, and this dress doesn’t have “normal” arms (the dress front and back are not connected at the shoulder), so it’s going to take some thought and planning.  After spending a few days trying to figure out how to accomplish the adjustment I was beginning to lose my momentum and decided to shelf M6163 for now and move on to something a little easier.


I’d had V1292 sitting in my pattern stash for a while, but never found any ruffled knit I liked enough to make it up.  What really drew me to this pattern was the origami edge at the bottom.  While the suggested stripes and ruffles and the pattern layout really make this skirt unique, I felt that the origami edge on version A would be just as dramatic in a solid.  I had a nice piece of lavender wool knit in my stash leftover from a top I made last year, and decided to give it a shot.

Origami edge

The skirt turned out really, really well!  I love the edge effect, even in the solid.  The bias cut of these pieces and the way they’re stitched together give them a really nice kick when I move.  There are twelve of them in total, so they do take a bit of time to stitch together and attach, but the end result is totally worth it.

The way the panels of the skirt are cut make it hug your curves just right.  Very flattering!  The length works well with the wool knit with boots for the cooler weather.  If I made this in a lighter weight fabric, I might shorten it just a bit (I’m 5’3″ and didn’t shorten the skirt, so this is probably a little longer than intended on me as-is).

Back view

I used a lightweight cotton jersey in a light gray for the lining.  When you add the lining to the skirt, it is supposed to fall just short of the bottom of the origami edge.  You attach the two at the bottom edge, then pull the lining up and baste at the waist.  The lining is supposed to be slightly shorter than the skirt, which creates a slight “bubble” effect at the bottom.  I found that my lining was actually about the same length as the skirt, and actually peeked out a little at the bottom.  This didn’t work well since the lining was a different color.  Plus, I didn’t want to lose the bubble effect.  I pulled the lining up and cut about an inch off at the top.  This reduced the lining length by just enough to create the “bubble” effect at the bottom.

I really like the quick and easy elastic waist on this skirt as well.  The instructions have you cut a length of elastic that is 4″ shorter than your “honest waist measurement”, but the ends together over a scrap of fabric, and zigzag together.  You then mark the elastic and skirt at the quarter marks, match the marks right sides together, and zigzag the elastic to the skirt at the top, stretching as you sew.  You then turn under and zigzag to the skirt at the bottom of the elastic as well.  I thought this would be tight on my waist, but it’s actually very comfortable.

I sewed the whole thing up on my new Bernina, which sews like an absolute dream!  It was a good test run for the new addition.  I really, really love the end result, and think it has definitely had the desired result of renewing my motivation.  I’m hoping to figure out that FBA this weekend and forge ahead with M6163!