Introducing….. Anise!

Anise is done!

I have to admit, this project was a challenge for me.  I had to add in a bust dart to a pattern that didn’t originally have one in order to accomodate an FBA.   I’ve never sewn a lined jacket before, and had never even attempted welt pockets or bound buttonholes.  The pattern was rated for intermediate, which intimidated me as I’m very much a beginner.  But I loved this pattern and was determined to push myself, and I think I did fairly well.

Welt pocket detail

I made more than a few mistakes with this project.  For starters, I chose a fabric that is heavier than recommended, which  added to my frustration level during construction.  My machine really had a difficult time with the fabric when contructing the finer details like the buttonholes and pockets.  But in the end, I really like the end result in the heavier wool.  I think it adds to the vintage feel of the coat, particularly when coupled with the faux Persian Lamb collar.

Collar detail

My type A personality really took hold with this project.  I am not a huge fan of hand sewing, and this pattern required a lot of it.  I got frustrated and sloppy with the lining hem, and had to unpick and redo the whole thing.  I had to remove and reattach three buttons to get them perfect aligned.  I had to unpick and reattach one of the sleeves to get it lined up with the other, and I still don’t think they’re perfect.  I spent so much time working on this jacket, and I found that as I neared the end of construction I was looking on my work with such a critical eye that all I could see were its flaws.  I had to walk away from the jacket for a few days, so that I could come back and look on it with fresh eyes to really appreciate what I’d accomplished.  This is something I really need to work on – I absolutely do not want my OCD perfectionism to interfere with my ability to enjoy sewing.  I think I’ll take the next week or so to whip up a few quick, easy projects to help me regain my sewing mojo.

Despite my frustrations, I really do love both the pattern and the jacket, and would definitely recommend it to others.  This was my first experience with Colette patterns, and I was very impressed with both the pattern and the instructions.  They were very clear and well written, and I really appreciate the step by step illustrations.  Having access to Sarai, the sew-alongs, and helpful tips in the Colette forums is also a HUGE bonus.  I am definitely a fan, and plan on picking up several more of the Colette patterns in the near future.

I think the jacket is a perfect compliment to my mini-tophat, don’t you?

(I really need a new camera – this one does not capture colors well at all!)

Teaser!

The Anise jacket is just about finished!  I’ll be posting a full blog post this weekend once I can get my photographer to take some shots of me modeling it, but in the meantime here’s a teaser….

Anise progress

Now that I have the fit right, it’s time to move along to constructing the jacket!  I found some really lovely fabric for this project: a wonderful burgundy novelty wool from Stonemountain & Daughter that has a very very soft feel to it – almost like a very nice quality fleece; some gorgeous multi-colored silk organza (I think it may be a silk/cotton blend, actually) from Fabric Mart that picks up the burgundy from the jacket body for the lining; and – the crowning glory – some wonderful faux Persian Lamb (not pictured) for the collar, which I think will really add to the vintage feel of the design!

Anise jacket fabric choices. Can you tell I have a thing for purple?

Originally I had planned to use the lambskin in the photo for the pocket welts and the bound buttonholes, but I decided against it as this is my first time working with those particular design elements, and I felt that adding leather to the mix might make it a bit too challenging.  Also, I really want the Persian Lamb collar to be a focal point on the jacket, and I think the leather might have detracted from that.

I think these add to the vintage look of the jacket.

I also found these wonderful metal buttons with a sort of gray mother-of-pearl looking accent in the middle.  They compliment the black of the collar very nicely.

I recently ordered a case of Dynarex Medical Paper to use as tracing paper after reading a thread on Pattern Review.  This stuff is FANTASTIC for pattern tracing!  It’s a bit more heavy duty so won’t tear as easily, but still lightweight and see-through, making tracing easy.  I traced the pattern pieces for the jacket front, lining front and front facing, and made the adjustments for a 2.5″ FBA (I nearly forgot I would have to make the adjustments on the lining and facing too – DUH moment!) per my earlier fitting, then cut my fashion fabric and jumped in to jacket construction!  This is the first time I’ve underlined anything, and I have to say that I really do like the way the jacket feels and looks with the underlining.  It adds a nice weight and drape that the fabric alone wouldn’t have.  As suspected, adding the 2.5″ FBA resulted in some ENORMOUS bust darts.  I trimmed these and pressed flat to reduce bulk, then used a loose catchstitch to attach the trimmed darts to the underlining.

I have planned from the beginning to do bound buttonholes on this jacket, but as I got further and further in to construction I began second guessing my decision.  I had never done them before, and I was really nervous about it! I had pretty much made up my mind to just go ahead with machine

My first ever bound buttonhole!

buttonholes when Sarai posted a wonderful Bound Buttonhole Tutorial on the Coletterie forums.  This was by far the simplest and most easy to understand tutorial I had ever seen for bound buttonholes.  It really helped to reassure me that I could do it, and I knew the jacket would look better with them, so I forged ahead and, voila!  My first ever bound buttonhole!  It really was an easier process than I had imagined it being, although time consuming.  The top two are not the best in the world, but you can tell by the third buttonhole I was definitely feeling more confident with them!

After adding the bound buttonholes, I also stitched matching faux buttonholes on the opposite side of the center line of the right front jacket piece.  I’ll sew my decorative buttons on top of these faux buttonholes.

After adding the buttonholes, I stitched the front to the back at the shoulders.  I was still on a high from the buttonhole success, and decided to sew up the facing and collar as well.  Here’s Matilda modelling my progress so far.  I think it’s coming along very well!  Hope you are all making good progress on your projects, too!

Stage one of construction on the Anise jacket – DONE!