Jasmine, and a new addition.

The beginnings of my creative process..

Didn’t I say I was going to sew up a few easy things to help me get over my frustration with Anise?  Ok, to be fair, Jasmine was actually very easy, but you can see from my notes that I had to make several modifications.  I anticipated having to do an FBA (but 3.5″?! Ugh!), but I didn’t expect to have to do much else.  As you can see, there were a couple more adjustments that needed to be made.

Based on my high bust, I cut a size 6.  I don’t know if it’s because I cut such a small size, or if it’s just the way the pattern is drafted (or maybe I just have really large upper arms…), but the sleeve bands were really tiny.  I added 3″ to the sleeve band, but realized that this would mean that if I didn’t adjust the arm as well I was going to lose the gathering effect.  I really wanted to keep the nice gathered sleeves, so I went ahead and added 3″ to the sleeve as well by just cutting the pattern piece in half right in the middle and adding in tissue to expand by 3″.  The original sleeve design has gathering stitches just at the top of the sleevehead.  Because of the amount of expansion, this would mean that I’d have an extra 3″ of gathering in the sleevehead.  This looked sloppy and bulky, so I extended the gathering stitches to run almost the entire length of the sleeve.  This resulted in a more uniform gathering and a puffier look throughout the top of the sleeve.  It’s much more along the lines of the way the sleeve should have looked prior to the adjustments I made.

 One of the things I really like about this blouse is the high back.  I have a tattoo on my upper back between my shoulder blades, and I work in an office and position where visible tattoos aren’t encouraged. Believe it or not, it can be a little difficult to find blouses other than standard collared button up shirts that don’t drop so low in the back as to expose my tattoo!  The cut of this blouse is perfect in that regard.

Overall I really like this top!  I think I may have added just a smidge too much in the FBA, so I might take that down a bit in my next version.  I’d like to make one with a contrasting collar and sleeve bands, and I’m also cooking up an idea for modifying the collar in a few different ways to achieve some different looks.  Another success for me with a Colette pattern!  I’m planning on picking up the Beignet skirt pattern and making that soon.  I’m totally sold on Colette!

In other news…..

We have a new addition to the Redd’s Threads clan!

I just brought this baby home yesterday!  A Bernina Artista 200, complete with embroidery module and a bunch of extras.  This girl has literally only 10:56 sewing time, and 7 minutes embroidery time.  She’s practically brand new, she sews like a dream, and I got her for a song!  I’ve not done any embroidery before, but I’m looking forward to playing around with it.  At the price I got her for, I’ll be happy even if I never do anything more than sew garments on her.

I played around a little with some of the decorative stitches tonight, and my verdict on this machine is that she is…



6 Comments (+add yours?)

  1. Carola
    Nov 02, 2012 @ 22:27:59

    I’ve also got that pattern and am keen to make it but I’m not sure about the centre back and centre front seams… I was considering placing the pattern pieces on a fold (still on the bias) and adding under bust and back darts to each side. Do you think it’s worth a try? Maybe I should just try the original one first and then try altering it a bit afterwards!

    Oh, and love your new machine! One day I might get into the embroidery side of things too!


    • Redd's Threads
      Nov 03, 2012 @ 09:54:57

      Hmm. It might work for the back seam, but the front definitely has some shaping so probably wouldn’t work on the fold. Are you mostly worried about the way it looks? If you use a print, it’s much less noticeable.


  2. Tia Dia
    Nov 03, 2012 @ 10:31:20

    It’s lovely! I’m not very familiar with Colette patterns, having never sewn one up (I have a dress in my queue for next spring/summer). I just had a good look at their website’s into on this top. It’s really nice – especially the dramatic neckline. And I love your very organized fabric stash behind you. I need to do that with mine!


    • Redd's Threads
      Nov 03, 2012 @ 11:33:33

      Your comment about the fabric stash made me laugh – I had just organized everything earlier that evening. It was a huge mess before! I really like Colette for both their styles and the wonderful instructions and step by step guidance. You can tell she really puts a lot in to her patterns.


  3. Jen Robinson
    Nov 08, 2012 @ 12:44:12

    I’ve been struggling with the FBA on this pattern, but you’ve inspired me to go back to it – I’ve made 2 muslins that didn’t work and I suspect that I need to go smaller and do a bigger FBA. I was glad to see that someone else is shocked to have to add several inches, because I kept thinking it wasn’t right. I really want to make this pattern work for me.

    About your sleeve solution: next time instead of adding at the center, maybe it would work to only slash part way up and distribute it in several places just at the bottom in order to not have to deal with extra fabric gathers? Just a thought – I don’t know if it would work or not.


    • Redd's Threads
      Nov 08, 2012 @ 13:04:11

      Thanks for the comment, Jen! My first muslin didn’t work either. I actually ended up having to do it a bit differently than I normally would. I originally cut the pattern per my high bust measurements and set about doing the FBA per the Fit For Real People method. Usually when I do the tissue fitting and mark my apex, it is pretty well in line with the side dart on the pattern. With Jasmine it was not at all in line with the dart. In fact, it was at least two or three inches below. I tried moving the dart lower to accomodate, but that didn’t work well – the dart was too low when sewn.

      What I finally ended up doing after pondering it a bit was to just raise the marked apex point on the pattern tissue to be in line with the bust dart. This seemed counterintuitive to me, since that meant it was much higher than my apex point, but I couldn’t think of any other way to make it work. I then drew my lines, slashed and spread, and sewed another muslin. Much to my suprise, it actually worked perfectly! I expected the darts to be too high since they were originally so much higher on the pattern, but it worked perfectly to do it this way.

      Thanks for the comment on the sleeves. That makes a lot of sense! I’ll give it a whirl on my next version.


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