Fitting the Anise jacket

I’m a little behind in the Anise sew-along, as I’ve had company the past week and haven’t had much time to sew.  I did find a few spare minutes here and there to cut the pattern, make a muslin, and check for fitting issues.  This is the first time I’ve sewed a full muslin and not just relied on a tissue fitting, so I was interested to see the difference it would make in fit.

I didn’t have a lot in my stash that was comparable in weight and feel to the wool I’m using for the coat, but I did manage to find some novelty fabric that I thought was close enough.  I cut the pattern according to my full bust measurements as recommended by Sarai, and sewed up a quick version in

First muslin. Seems OK enough so far….

the muslin fabric.  When the jacket is on and draping open, it seems to fit OK.  There are a few wrinkles in the shoulder area that indicate there may be a problem somewhere, but nothing major.  If I was going to wear the jacket open all the time, I’d probably leave as-is.  But, being this is a jacket and I want it to keep me warm, I’m not planning on wearing it open all the time!  You can’t see it well in the photo, but there is a chalkline on the front of the jacket marking the center front.  When I pulled the front pieces so that the centers matched, I got a very different result.

You can see that closing the jacket eliminated the wrinkles in the shoulder from the first picture, but if you look closely you will also notice that we now have a new set of wrinkles in the armpit.  The jacket is also very tight across my chest, despite garment measurements saying I should have 3 inches of ease.  When I stretch or move my arms in any way, the tightness increases and the wrinkles/draglines become much more obvious. 

Starting to get a little wrinkly in the armpit…

Yep, it’s as I expected – I’m not going to be able to get away without an FBA on this one :-/  In order to determine the amount of adjustment I would need, I let the jacket hang naturally and measured the distance between the center chalkline and my center at the bust apex.  The difference between the two was 2.5″, meaning I was going to have to add 2.5″ at the bust apex in order to achieve a proper fit.  There are a couple of different ways to do this – if I wanted to preserve the lines of the jacket I could slash and spread the pattern without adding a bust dart, which would add length to the overall design.  I really like where the

Ugh! Not attractive!

jacket hits me in the muslin version, and I don’t really want to do that.  I traced my pattern pieces and used the Palmer and Pletsch FFRP method to add in a bust dart.  I then redrew all the button markings to make sure they would still sit where they should.  I was concerned the FBA might interfere with button placement, but actually I think it looks fine.  After adjusting the front jacket pattern, I also adjusted the front lining piece in the same way, and made a length adjustment to the front facing so that it would match up with the jacket front.

I didn’t really have another suitable fabric in my stash to make a second muslin from, but I did have some Sewable Swedish Tracing Paper that I had never tried, and thought I’d give that a whirl.  I cut the pattern pieces from the paper, sewed them together, and tried on the new paper muslin.  I have to say, I’m fairly impressed with this stuff!  You definitely still have to be gentle with it (I got a little tear in the armhole when trying it on), but it is absolutely sewable and able to tell you if you’ve achieved a good fit. 

According to the new muslin, the bust dart did the trick!  Because I had to add 2.5″, it’s a pretty deep dart.  I’m working with wool, so that dart is going to create a lot of bulk.  I plan on trimming the excess, pressing, and catchstitching to the underlining to reduce the bulk.

Last night I cut in to my fashion fabric, attached the interfacing, and basted the underlining to the front, back and side back.  I think I’m all caught up and ready to go!  I’m hoping to begin sewing the real deal on Wednesday.  Wish me luck!  I’ll post an update on my progress later this week.

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1 Comment (+add yours?)

  1. Jenny
    Oct 10, 2012 @ 10:54:31

    Good luck! It sounds like you’ve got it all worked out. I made up one muslin and it’s too long for me. It’s almost at my hips. The size I chose also seems to be a little too big for me. I’m thinking of cutting a second muslin with the length adjustment to see how it fits. Can’t wait to see your progress 🙂

    Reply

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